Wild Coast Recce: day 6
December, 2012 | No Comments
The last day of our little caper down the Wild Coast was the longest, a 50km run from Kob Inn to Kei Mouth. The rain was still chucking down and although our jeans had dried the rest of our gear was still soaked. The toughest part of my day is always hauling on sodden clothing, socks and boots but it was reasonably academic as it was raining and the first river crossing was just a kilometer away, promising another thorough drenching!
We left Kob Inn mid morning, timed to coincide with the low tide to give us easy river crossings and wide stretches of hard sand on the beach for our last day of exhilarating gallops. The landscape flattens considerably making the riding flow easily from the beaches, through green tunnels in the occasional narrow bands of coastal bush. to paths on the gently undulating grassy slopes; in short, fabulous steady riding perfect for eating up the distance ahead.
It was going to be a long day in the saddle and the four of us knew that we needed to push on whenever possible. We had bonded well as a group, united by our shared experience. Victor, far tougher than his outward appearance, had us in stitches most of the day with his quirky Irish sense of humour and had fueled the team building banter for most the trail. He was having the ride of his life. Quiet Nicky was living her dream of expanding her experience of riding the Wild Coast, a quiet smile crossing her face when my eye caught hers from time to time. I suspect she was in that zone that I get into toward the end of a ride. You know that it is coming to an end bringing on a slight case of the blues as you realize that a return to “real life” is imminent, but, you have bonded with your horse and fellow riders and the unit is working well together, covering ground efficiently, allowing your mind to wander to the experiences of preceding days. These are experienced as group but within that each person has a unique experience formed by the combination of man (or woman) and beast, each with a mind of their own, and the challenges presented by the landscape. There had been countless steep hills, hot days, muddy tight forest tracks requiring us to lead the horses for considerable distances, rocky outcrops to negotiate, and of course the river crossings. Most people are slightly daunted by the first swim with their horse but everyone grows to enjoy the feeling of achievement when reaching the far bank, especially when it has been as long as the 180m swim to cross the Mtakatye.
The landscape unrolled before us, each of us silent with our own thoughts for long periods, through one stunning setting after the other: picturesque cove, tranquil forest fringed bay, aloe pocked hillside, striking rock formation smashed by perfectly formed waves, sublime beachscape punctuated with serene sleek long horned cattle! It was all there magnificent to behold but I had stopped feeling the need to photograph it, I just wanted to experience this landscape and the wonderful zone I was in with my homeward bound horse Tara, and my companions.
As we neared our destination the sea dirtied slightly, announcing the presence of the Kei River, for so long the boundary of the Cape Colony under British rule. This is Nicky’s back yard, she has been riding here for the last five years and I was happy to hand over the lead to her and be a passenger for a while. We were riding fast on easy winding paths, soft underfoot for the horses, travelling in an extended trot or slow canter. And then, suddenly, we were there, riding on flat ground down the northern bank of the Kei toward the pont that would carry us and our horses across the river to the hamlet of Kei Mouth. Our fabulous ride was over!
Joe and I don’t often ride long distances with other people and it was great to have the opportunity to do so and in the process make two new friends in Nicky and Victor who really rose to the challenge of this adventure. Thanks to Julie-Anne Gower from Wild Coast Horseback Adventures our partner in this venture and her wonderful horses Tara, Tamsim, Tene-sea and Reign.
This is a beautiful account of an unforgettable adventure shared with some very special friends
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